I took an art class once and we were using water color paints
we also used a glue like substance that was applied with a paint brush
once it dried, you could paint over it
once that dried, you could rub it off and underneath was plain white (or whatever paper you were painting on)
what is this called?
im trying to find it but can't think of the name
thanks!What is an Art supply that looks like glue but can rub off once painted over?
Masking fluid.
You can also try rubber cement, if the paper is durable enough/project is not that important.
Also if you have large shapes you can use Reynolds Press and Seal wrap (found in the foil section in the grocery store). It works pretty well.
For nicer projects in large areas, they have professional frisket paper at art supply stores.What is an Art supply that looks like glue but can rub off once painted over?
Its called Masking Fluid
Try This Site
http://ziggyart.co.uk/Products/Art_Masking_Fluid__WINSOR__NEWTON_Save_拢1!.aspx
Winsor %26amp; Newton Art Masking Fluid is a liquid with added pigmentation for masking areas of work needing protection when colour is applied in broad washes.
Winsor %26amp; Newton Art Masking Fluid should not be applied to damp paper or on soft sized papers and it is important to ensure that the paper is dry before you commence painting. For best results, do not leave on paper for too long. Art Masking Fluid can be removed with an eraser. Soapy water will remove any lingering Art Masking Fluid from your brush.
Masking fluid. It's white and comes in small bottles. It feels like rubber when you peel it off. You can find it at any art supply store that sells paints. You can also use it with other paints, but it's marketed for water colors.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
What place in the world has the cheapest bulk art supplies? Needing paper, acrylics, canvas, paints, brushes.
Odd way to post the question - you can only buy from the companies you have access to, so start looking there. I have comics on my yahoo home page, when I click on the comic to see what I've missed in the past day or two - then a whole list of artist material supplies shows up. Each different comic has different advertisers with it. This might be a place for you to start so you can compare their prices. If you are looking for bulk to supply a school, you may be eligible for a special discount. If you are looking for wholesale to stock you store, try contacting manufacturers.What place in the world has the cheapest bulk art supplies? Needing paper, acrylics, canvas, paints, brushes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/OIL-ACRYLIC-WATERCOLOR-PAINTING-EASEL-500-ART-SUPPLIES_W0QQitemZ260126367007QQihZ016QQcategoryZ4174QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
postage kills it of course, but ebay has lots of bulk items, i remember looking for something similiar a few years ago.tvs
http://cgi.ebay.com/OIL-ACRYLIC-WATERCOLOR-PAINTING-EASEL-500-ART-SUPPLIES_W0QQitemZ260126367007QQihZ016QQcategoryZ4174QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
postage kills it of course, but ebay has lots of bulk items, i remember looking for something similiar a few years ago.
What are some essential art supplies that you feel every REAL artist (drawing/painting stuff) must have?
can you give me the brands
im talking about things like markers, pencils, paper, ect.
thanx :)What are some essential art supplies that you feel every REAL artist (drawing/painting stuff) must have?
I don't bother with brands for pencils - but I like 8B pencils for drawing. I also draw with a fountain pen and coloured ink, and a fine black pen that makes a strong line. Naturally I use charcoal, with white pastel on coloured paper, very striking.
For paint, I tend to stick to Windsor %26amp; Newton for oil colours - they are the most convenient brand to get in Ireland. I get either W %26amp; N for acrylics, or Galleria if it's handier. I tend not to use gouache unless I have very good paper for it. And watercolour also looks best with good paper, so I use Fabriano - I was in Italy last year and bought a lot of good pads. For a while I was making my own canvases, but it does save a lot of time to either have them made or to buy them readymade. Lately I've been enjoying painting on board or on canvas board - a different kind of resistance to the stretched canvas, I've found.
I also use things that are handy - carboard is okay, and you can get interesting textures also. And lately I've been having fun with collage, for which you can use just about anything that glue will hold. It's fun to use with acrylic paints.What are some essential art supplies that you feel every REAL artist (drawing/painting stuff) must have?
Every real artist has a kneaded eraser (gray and putty-like) and a white rubber eraser, I guarantee it-- they're just too useful to go without.
Most of it is personal preference. I happen to like Prismacolor colored pencils, markers etc.
Staedtler is good for drawing pencils
I like Strathmore Windpower Sketchbooks (because they're made in factories that use 100% wind power energy and the paper quality is good)
Painting, I'm not sure (I'm an illustrator, not a painter)
Percy was right. Once you get confident enough, you realize that nobody is judging you on what kind of materials you're using and once you're skilled enough, you can compensate for the shortcomings of medium-grade art supplies (although calling someone else 'low quality' is usually just a marketing ploy of the most expensive supplies)
Wallpaper lining paper is excellent for drawing on and encourages a free approach as there is so much of it that you won't get ';precious'; about your work. Charcoal also encourages a free approach and can be lifted off with white bread and fixed with hairspray. Often pencil is better for more detailed drawing.
Experiment with different media to discover what suits you but limit the number of colours you buy! Start with just 3 or 4 and learn how to mix them as subtly as possible before moving on to acquiring new colours. If you are painting in water colours it is worth buying good brushes but try some large ones as well as fiddly little sable ones- there are some quite reasonably priced Chinese ones available. Don't use your sable brushes with acrylic and make sure you wash acrylic off your brushes before it dries or you will ruin them!
For drawing, look for newsprint paper for practicing. It's cheap crummy paper, any brand is fine.
When you are ready to draw on better paper, I like the sketchpads on spirals so the pages don't fall out... either buy a pencil set or buy a range of pencils individually... The number is the darkness and the letter says how soft the graphite is. For instance, 6B means dark and soft, 1H means light and hard. Good brands of pencils are Staedtler or Derwent I think
As for paint, the most reliable acrylic brand of paint is Winsor %26amp; Newton Designers Gouache.
Well, when I started out, I had the backs of a few dozen old greetings cards, some pieces of old cardboard boxes, a couple of pencil stubs , a cheap set of poster paints and a little tin of watercolours; it's not what you've got that matters, but rather what you do with it ! Heard that song about L. S Lowry-- ' He painted Salford's smoky 'tops, on cardboard boxes from the shops' ? Well, it's true !
we all through that phase then you get confident and it doesnt matter
i have all the expensive wood stuff
but now i us a plastic tool box
and a bit of coreflute for a pallet
dont buy every paint under the sun
a visual diary and charcola pencil a 2 b pencil a putty rubber thats it
you cant buy your self to being able to draw or paint
A real artist uses whatever gives them the best result, mostly it's down to preference as to what supplies you use. It really doesn't matter what materials you use, its the talent of the artist that determines the result.
im talking about things like markers, pencils, paper, ect.
thanx :)What are some essential art supplies that you feel every REAL artist (drawing/painting stuff) must have?
I don't bother with brands for pencils - but I like 8B pencils for drawing. I also draw with a fountain pen and coloured ink, and a fine black pen that makes a strong line. Naturally I use charcoal, with white pastel on coloured paper, very striking.
For paint, I tend to stick to Windsor %26amp; Newton for oil colours - they are the most convenient brand to get in Ireland. I get either W %26amp; N for acrylics, or Galleria if it's handier. I tend not to use gouache unless I have very good paper for it. And watercolour also looks best with good paper, so I use Fabriano - I was in Italy last year and bought a lot of good pads. For a while I was making my own canvases, but it does save a lot of time to either have them made or to buy them readymade. Lately I've been enjoying painting on board or on canvas board - a different kind of resistance to the stretched canvas, I've found.
I also use things that are handy - carboard is okay, and you can get interesting textures also. And lately I've been having fun with collage, for which you can use just about anything that glue will hold. It's fun to use with acrylic paints.What are some essential art supplies that you feel every REAL artist (drawing/painting stuff) must have?
Every real artist has a kneaded eraser (gray and putty-like) and a white rubber eraser, I guarantee it-- they're just too useful to go without.
Most of it is personal preference. I happen to like Prismacolor colored pencils, markers etc.
Staedtler is good for drawing pencils
I like Strathmore Windpower Sketchbooks (because they're made in factories that use 100% wind power energy and the paper quality is good)
Painting, I'm not sure (I'm an illustrator, not a painter)
Percy was right. Once you get confident enough, you realize that nobody is judging you on what kind of materials you're using and once you're skilled enough, you can compensate for the shortcomings of medium-grade art supplies (although calling someone else 'low quality' is usually just a marketing ploy of the most expensive supplies)
Wallpaper lining paper is excellent for drawing on and encourages a free approach as there is so much of it that you won't get ';precious'; about your work. Charcoal also encourages a free approach and can be lifted off with white bread and fixed with hairspray. Often pencil is better for more detailed drawing.
Experiment with different media to discover what suits you but limit the number of colours you buy! Start with just 3 or 4 and learn how to mix them as subtly as possible before moving on to acquiring new colours. If you are painting in water colours it is worth buying good brushes but try some large ones as well as fiddly little sable ones- there are some quite reasonably priced Chinese ones available. Don't use your sable brushes with acrylic and make sure you wash acrylic off your brushes before it dries or you will ruin them!
For drawing, look for newsprint paper for practicing. It's cheap crummy paper, any brand is fine.
When you are ready to draw on better paper, I like the sketchpads on spirals so the pages don't fall out... either buy a pencil set or buy a range of pencils individually... The number is the darkness and the letter says how soft the graphite is. For instance, 6B means dark and soft, 1H means light and hard. Good brands of pencils are Staedtler or Derwent I think
As for paint, the most reliable acrylic brand of paint is Winsor %26amp; Newton Designers Gouache.
Well, when I started out, I had the backs of a few dozen old greetings cards, some pieces of old cardboard boxes, a couple of pencil stubs , a cheap set of poster paints and a little tin of watercolours; it's not what you've got that matters, but rather what you do with it ! Heard that song about L. S Lowry-- ' He painted Salford's smoky 'tops, on cardboard boxes from the shops' ? Well, it's true !
we all through that phase then you get confident and it doesnt matter
i have all the expensive wood stuff
but now i us a plastic tool box
and a bit of coreflute for a pallet
dont buy every paint under the sun
a visual diary and charcola pencil a 2 b pencil a putty rubber thats it
you cant buy your self to being able to draw or paint
A real artist uses whatever gives them the best result, mostly it's down to preference as to what supplies you use. It really doesn't matter what materials you use, its the talent of the artist that determines the result.
I have Bought an oil painting supplied on a rolled up canvas how do i frame it ?and hang it ?
I am a professional framer. I would have it done professionally. There are a lot of variables. If it has really thick paint in some areas you run the risk of the paint cracking when it is stretched. Nothing can be done about that. Professional artists will paint on the canvas when it is stretched and it will restretch much better. I see a lot of canvases that come from tourist areas and are done on the canvas that is not stretched. That presents the problem of cracking. It is hard to give you advice without seeing the piece. Your can build a frame and do it your self. I would use 1 x 2 pine. Make sure it is perfectly square. If your piece is large, you will need a brace across mid way so the sides don't bow.You have to use soft wood so you can staple into it. Pull it as tight as you can (we use a tool for stretching) and staple on the back side. If you make your frame small enough so the color comes around the edges (called gallery stretching) you can hang it without a frame. This is very popular right now. Good luck.I have Bought an oil painting supplied on a rolled up canvas how do i frame it ?and hang it ?
A professional picture framer can stretch it and frame it for youI have Bought an oil painting supplied on a rolled up canvas how do i frame it ?and hang it ?
It's probably acrylic, which is not a criticism.
If it IS oil, you're in trouble as it will fall off the canvas when opened out.
Take it to a framer who will stretch it first then frame as desired.
If money is a problem and the painting is not worth a great deal but is of sentimental value, build a wooden frame a little smaller than the canvas and stretch the edges over and tack into place. then it can be inserted in an outer frame, however, paintings can, and are hung without an outer frame. It is unlikely that the oil paint will drop off unless it is very old, however, you should take care when doing this work. You can also use a ply board, cutting to size and tack the canvas to it. (Glue may spoil the canvas)
To hang it, buy two screw-in small hooks, attach them 2/3 of the way up each side. Stretch a length of twine between, leaving it fairy tight because it will stretch with the weight.
If it is a really good oil painting then it must be well worth having it mounted and framed professionally.
The above is all good advice, and i agree that the there is a good chance of the paint cracking if re-stretched, therefore i would offer another solution of simply mounting the canvas on board, avoiding the re-stretching altogether, you don't get the authentic 'look' of the stretched canvas but its an almost imperceptible difference anyway and the painting will be at least crack free. again it would be best to get this done by a professional
I advise you to follow DAkframe麓s advice.
I am a professional artist and the business of restreaching a canvas is not especially easy even for an experienced framer, and there is a good chance that you will damage the picture in the process.
use your common sense, get framed for you, otherwise roll out store flat between sheets of acid free paper, tissue paper is a good bet, like all your other answers you make the call wether the painting is of a value to you. you have been given some very sound advice from lots of professionals on framing and stretching a painted surface, the medium,and quality of base, and method of application all play a role in achieving a success, good luck, regards LF
A professional picture framer can stretch it and frame it for youI have Bought an oil painting supplied on a rolled up canvas how do i frame it ?and hang it ?
It's probably acrylic, which is not a criticism.
If it IS oil, you're in trouble as it will fall off the canvas when opened out.
Take it to a framer who will stretch it first then frame as desired.
If money is a problem and the painting is not worth a great deal but is of sentimental value, build a wooden frame a little smaller than the canvas and stretch the edges over and tack into place. then it can be inserted in an outer frame, however, paintings can, and are hung without an outer frame. It is unlikely that the oil paint will drop off unless it is very old, however, you should take care when doing this work. You can also use a ply board, cutting to size and tack the canvas to it. (Glue may spoil the canvas)
To hang it, buy two screw-in small hooks, attach them 2/3 of the way up each side. Stretch a length of twine between, leaving it fairy tight because it will stretch with the weight.
If it is a really good oil painting then it must be well worth having it mounted and framed professionally.
The above is all good advice, and i agree that the there is a good chance of the paint cracking if re-stretched, therefore i would offer another solution of simply mounting the canvas on board, avoiding the re-stretching altogether, you don't get the authentic 'look' of the stretched canvas but its an almost imperceptible difference anyway and the painting will be at least crack free. again it would be best to get this done by a professional
I advise you to follow DAkframe麓s advice.
I am a professional artist and the business of restreaching a canvas is not especially easy even for an experienced framer, and there is a good chance that you will damage the picture in the process.
use your common sense, get framed for you, otherwise roll out store flat between sheets of acid free paper, tissue paper is a good bet, like all your other answers you make the call wether the painting is of a value to you. you have been given some very sound advice from lots of professionals on framing and stretching a painted surface, the medium,and quality of base, and method of application all play a role in achieving a success, good luck, regards LF
I painted a mural,now the client will not pay the $730 owed for labor and supplies. All advice wanted.?
If you have a written contract or sales agreement of some kind, then you have a few options. I'd start by dealing directly with the customer that owes you the money. If they want to pay but claim to not have the money then work out a system where they pay you what they can, or demand that they get a small loan and pay you.
if they still don't pay you can take them to small claims court or look into selling the debt to a collection agency. either way you'll loose some money but you wont be out the full $730.
If all you had was a verbal agreement then you might be out of luck. Not saying you should give up, but take it as a lesson for the future. Always get a contract in writing. Get a small portion up front before performing work, and make sure that the contract specifies when payment is due. Also make sure it is clear what the customer's options are if they aren't satisfied.
Good LuckI painted a mural,now the client will not pay the $730 owed for labor and supplies. All advice wanted.?
Is the client a business ? If so, and this isn't a threat but a promise, let your client know that you're going to run an ad in your community newspaper about his non payment for work done on his business. Sounds silly, but powerful !!! Let him know that this is theft of service rendered and that you're follow up to this ad will be small claims court. Let him know that you're serious, and that this issue isn't going to just go away. I would also contact the Department Of Consumer Protection in your area, they may either be able to help you or lead you in the right direction. Stand up for yourself and don't let this client take advantage of you, get your $730 . Be sure to tell everyone about your experience with this client, hopefully you can save someone from being his next victim.I painted a mural,now the client will not pay the $730 owed for labor and supplies. All advice wanted.?
if you have legal proof they owe you money take it to court asap
if they still don't pay you can take them to small claims court or look into selling the debt to a collection agency. either way you'll loose some money but you wont be out the full $730.
If all you had was a verbal agreement then you might be out of luck. Not saying you should give up, but take it as a lesson for the future. Always get a contract in writing. Get a small portion up front before performing work, and make sure that the contract specifies when payment is due. Also make sure it is clear what the customer's options are if they aren't satisfied.
Good LuckI painted a mural,now the client will not pay the $730 owed for labor and supplies. All advice wanted.?
Is the client a business ? If so, and this isn't a threat but a promise, let your client know that you're going to run an ad in your community newspaper about his non payment for work done on his business. Sounds silly, but powerful !!! Let him know that this is theft of service rendered and that you're follow up to this ad will be small claims court. Let him know that you're serious, and that this issue isn't going to just go away. I would also contact the Department Of Consumer Protection in your area, they may either be able to help you or lead you in the right direction. Stand up for yourself and don't let this client take advantage of you, get your $730 . Be sure to tell everyone about your experience with this client, hopefully you can save someone from being his next victim.I painted a mural,now the client will not pay the $730 owed for labor and supplies. All advice wanted.?
if you have legal proof they owe you money take it to court asap
Can anyone supply me with a paint code for a black Kawasaki ER6F (2007 registered)?
I have had a bit of an accident when my motorcycle fell off the side stand and developed a few scratches. I need to obtain a paint code to respray a couple of the fairing panels.
Could anyone supply me with this code for a black 2007 registered model. It seems very difficult to obtain the code in order to purchase the paint. Kawasaki dealer will not provide the code but will provide the painted parts. A bit of a rip off really. A 拢10 job turns into a couple of hundred.
Any help would be appreciated.Can anyone supply me with a paint code for a black Kawasaki ER6F (2007 registered)?
It's supposed to be
Code: 17K
Name :Metallic Diablo Black
.............................
Here's a couple of Sources in UK ,,
no recommendation--I never have used them.
http://cgi.ebay.com/KAWASAKI-TOUCH-UP-PA鈥?/a>
...................................
http://www.bike-paint.co.uk/index.html
...................................
Black is The Most Difficult to patch,,,it shows every flaw.
Being a Metallic makes things worse,,because that flake sets up a sort of ';Knap'; in the paint.
Use a little extra care in prep,primering etc,
And spraying as wide an area as is practical ,,,rather than a small spot,,, will blend much easier and better.
And reduce HiLighting of the repaired area.
Hope any of that helps,,,and that your project comes out very nicely.
Good Luck
Could anyone supply me with this code for a black 2007 registered model. It seems very difficult to obtain the code in order to purchase the paint. Kawasaki dealer will not provide the code but will provide the painted parts. A bit of a rip off really. A 拢10 job turns into a couple of hundred.
Any help would be appreciated.Can anyone supply me with a paint code for a black Kawasaki ER6F (2007 registered)?
It's supposed to be
Code: 17K
Name :Metallic Diablo Black
.............................
Here's a couple of Sources in UK ,,
no recommendation--I never have used them.
http://cgi.ebay.com/KAWASAKI-TOUCH-UP-PA鈥?/a>
...................................
http://www.bike-paint.co.uk/index.html
...................................
Black is The Most Difficult to patch,,,it shows every flaw.
Being a Metallic makes things worse,,because that flake sets up a sort of ';Knap'; in the paint.
Use a little extra care in prep,primering etc,
And spraying as wide an area as is practical ,,,rather than a small spot,,, will blend much easier and better.
And reduce HiLighting of the repaired area.
Hope any of that helps,,,and that your project comes out very nicely.
Good Luck
Has anyone painted with Urethane Acrylic without air supplied respirator?
As long as you are not spraying this it has a Health Rating of 1 which is classified as ';slight.'; Adequate ventilation is all that is recommended.
If you are spraying it use a respirator. Even though there is not a toxic chemical danger, the atomized particles of acrylic will cause damage to your lungs.Has anyone painted with Urethane Acrylic without air supplied respirator?
Material date sheet seem to say that is it a fairly safe material; ';PROLONGED inhalation in a poorly ventilated are MAY cause respiratory irritation.';
Sounds pretty safe to me.tvs
If you are spraying it use a respirator. Even though there is not a toxic chemical danger, the atomized particles of acrylic will cause damage to your lungs.Has anyone painted with Urethane Acrylic without air supplied respirator?
Material date sheet seem to say that is it a fairly safe material; ';PROLONGED inhalation in a poorly ventilated are MAY cause respiratory irritation.';
Sounds pretty safe to me.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)